Monday 4 March 2013

Porpoises joining us on our sail to the Abacos islands from Spanish Wells

Ocean beach along Lynyard Cay

Sponges along the beach...

Pete's Pub at Little Harbour

Front approaching.....

Bahamian speed bump!

Bronze sea turtle sculpture- Johnston Gallery

Help!  What is this?  Found on beach.  Soft, gelatinous, transparent...

Lighthouse ruins at Little Harbour

Little Harbour lighthouse ruins

On Monday, February 25th, we awoke to ideal conditions to sail over to the Abacos islands crossing the Northeast Providence Channel…a distance of 50 miles of bluewater sailing.  There were several sailboats that crossed with us. We had a light southeasterly breeze and two-foot swell under a beautiful sunny sky.  By 16:00 we had entered the Little Harbour cut and anchored in the lee of Lynyard Cay.   The next morning we had one more day forecast of southerly breezes before the winds were supposed to swing into the north for the foreseeable future.  We took advantage of the wind direction and sailed up to Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco Island.  There we anchored among 50-60 other boats.  It is a town where you can do laundry and re-provision in a supermarket that is equivalent to any found in Canada.  What a treat to have a whole aisle of produce and vegetables instead of a few small bins of onions and yams and plantain, and possibly a few bananas and tomatoes.  The variety was much appreciated….
After the chores,  we left on Thursday,  February 28th and sailed back south to Sandy Cay where a Land & Sea Park provides a beautiful coral reef to snorkel.  There was a large swell that made launching the dinghy a challenge, but the snorkeling was superb.  Immediately we spotted a hawksbill turtle that nonchalantly swam by, and several huge spotted rays that with huge tails!  There were lots of varieties of coral including elkhorn coral as well as a huge variety of reef fish.  After lunch we sailed back to Lynyard Cay for a walk on the beach.  On Friday, March 1st we ventured into Little Harbour at high tide and picked up a mooring ball.  We went ashore and visited the Johnston Gallery.  We visited this gallery twenty-eight years ago when we did this trip.  Back then, Walter had discovered a ring buried in the sand on a deserted island  beach.  Many of you have heard this tale and seen the ring….amethyst stones around a huge pearl with small diamonds.  It looked like costume jewelry to us, but we took it into Johnston’s Gallery back then and Pete Johnston told us it was actually real gold and quite a valuable ring.  Walt had found buried treasure!!!  Pete is still running the gallery. His father, Randolph Johnston, has since passed away.  Randolph was originally from Toronto.  He and his wife Margot with their four children sailed on their schooner here back in the 1950s.  They originally lived in a cave while they built their small house in Little Harbour and established a foundry.  Randolph made bronze sculptures.  His son, Pete, has continued that tradition as well as establishing Pete’s Pub…a popular hangout for cruisers at Happy Hour!  We explored the community including the abandoned old lighthouse.  We did do one small snorkel just outside of the harbor where there were lots of fan corals, but not much else.  We left  Saturday, March 2nd to go back to Marsh Harbour in anticipation of a week of strong northwest winds…Unfortunately, the other safe havens, Hopetown and Man-of-war cays were full with boats on moorings and no anchoring is allowed.  We stayed aboard for the rest of the day on Saturday and also Sunday since the winds and waves were too strong to attempt to go ashore.  On Monday, March 4th we got ashore to explore Marsh Harbour, pick up some new books to read from the “buck a book” , and arrange an internet connection.  And now we are caught up with our wanderings!

A few pictures when Frank was still visiting us in the Exumas....

Blowhole at Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay

Frank feeding iguana at Bitter Guana Cay

Eating celery

Windspell at anchor at Bitter Guana Cay

Farewell dinner at Staniel Cay Yacht Club

After Frank departed we sailed over to Eleuthera to Rock Harbour and then onto Governor's Harbour.  A few pictures from Governor's harbour....

Governor's Harbour, Eleuthera
Fishermen cleaning fish at Governor's Harbour

Waiting for the wave...


Catching the wave at Governor's Harbour beach
Street on governor's Harbour


The "Glass Window" on Eleuthera Island

Bahamian Alarm "cock"/clock

Entering Spanish Wells harbour


Dunmore Town Beach, Harbour Island

Lunch overlooking beach at Dunmore Town

Golf cart ride in Dunmore Town
From Governor’s Harbour we sailed on Friday, February 22nd to Hatchett Bay.  It has a narrow opening cut into the rock with a harbor inside that provides complete wind protection.  We stayed there overnight then continued on the next day past the “Glass Window”….a very narrow stretch of Eleuthera Island where you can see from the bank side to the Atlantic Ocean.  It is traversed by a bridge that has been removed by various hurricanes and rebuilt numerous times!  We passed through Current Cut that can have a wicked 6 knot current against you if you don’t time it right…fortunately we did get it right!  We sailed into Spanish Wells late in the afternoon.  We went ashore and walked around the small community.  It is known for its fishery.  We arranged to visit Dunmore Town on Harbour Island with Walt & Erin from the sailboat, Santosha using a water taxi since using our own boats would mean traversing a tricky coral reef called Devil’s Backbone.  Dunmore Town is known for its beautiful wide, pink coral beach and quaint streets lined with bougainvillea and hibiscus shrubs.  The town lived up to its reputation.  After walking through the town streets, Walt & I rented a golf cart to explore a little further afield.